Expert advice for planting daylilies

There are more new daylilies introduced each year than in any other single genus making it probably North America's favourite perennial. In total, there are about 30 different species of daylily, although only about half of these are used in hybridizing and four are quite often grown in gardens. Here's the do's and don'ts about planting daylilies.

Each different daylily is customized for specific regions. Here is a general synopsis.

• Foliage turns brown on dormant plants in the fall and the plant rests for the winter like most other perennials.
• On evergreen plants, the leaves remain green over winter.
• Those classified as semi-evergreen will remain green where the climate is mild — although the foliage may brown at the top — but go dormant where it is cold.
• In general, dormant varieties are hardier and better suited to northern climates.
• Many will not survive where winters are warm because they require a period of cold.
• Evergreen varieties are better suited to mild regions, but a surprising number will survive where winters are cold, even if they are covered in snow.

Daylilies live long and can remain in the same place for several years, so soil preparation before planting is important.

• If planting in a new area, or renovating an existing bed, remove all perennial weeds by carefully forking them out.
• Lighten very heavy soils by adding compost or well-rotted manure.
• If planting a new bed, spread a layer about eight centimetres (three inches) deep over the bed and dig it in.
• If adding individual plants to an existing bed, work extra compost into each planting hole. The same applies to light, sandy soils, which need the fertilizer to help retain moisture.
• The addition of fertilizer is very beneficial because daylilies are known for being heavy feeders and have a deep root system.
• The soil should be dug as deeply as possible, rather than being tilled since most home tillers only work the soil relatively shallowly.
• They will grow in almost all types of soil and in a wide range of acidic and alkaline conditions, from pH 5.5 to 7.5, so there is seldom need to amend the soil pH to accommodate them.

• If new plants arrive by mail, soak them for an hour before planting. This is not needed if the plants are pieces off old clumps in your own garden.
• Space the plants about 60 centimetres (25 inches) apart, more for vigorous varieties and slightly less for miniature ones.
• Dig a hole large enough to take the roots without crowding and work some compost into the soil you remove.
• Fill the hole with water and allow it to soak away to ensure the surrounding soil is moist.
• Put some of the prepared soil in the hole and adjust the amount so that the crown of the plant — where the roots and shoots meet — is at soil level.
• Fill in around the plant, working the soil between the roots with your fingers.
• Firm the soil well in place, leaving a very slight depression to retain water.
• Label the new plant with the variety name, then you will know what colour it is when not in bloom.
• Immediately after planting, water thoroughly.
• Water every other day for the first two weeks — unless it rains heavily — to help the plants become established.
• After planting and watering, mulch around the plants with any available material, including shredded bark, compost, or partly decomposed leaves. Apply a generous layer to conserve moisture, but keep it clear of the plant crowns.

Daylilies are popular because of their wide variety and ability to withstand cold climates. It's an excellent, worry-free perennial for your yard.