How to care for rose bushes

Roses will grow in a wide variety of soils and situations, and will survive with relatively little attention. But they do best in an open, sunny location that has a fairly rich, slightly acid soil. If humus is added, clay soil is excellent. Good drainage is essential, although roses need ample watering in the absence of rain. Once planted, roses will survive in the same bed for many years if the ground is regularly mulched and fed. Here are some more essential tips on growing a thriving rosebush.

The weather and the type of soil dictate when to water.

• Sandy soils need abundant water.
• In other kinds of soil, most roses, other than newly planted ones, will tolerate a two-week drought.
• A soaker hose or some other device that provides water only around the roots is best.
• Overhead watering can damage roses in full flower.
• When the plants are not in bloom, a soaker hose can be used to provide a continuous supply of water.
• To avoid wasting water, steer clear of a sprinkler with a fine mistlike spray.
• Do not use a coarse stream of water that will splash soil on the leaves and spread soil-borne diseases.
• Keep a careful watch on your roses to identify pests and diseases as soon as they appear.
• Treating the problem early makes it easier to keep the plants healthy. Problems left to multiply can be very difficult to control, and some pests and diseases increase at an alarming rate.
• Use a fine mist sprayer: the tank-type pressure sprayer is best.
• Cover the upper- and lower-leaf surfaces, as well as surrounding soil.

• In the first year after planting, roses should not be fed.
• After the first year, feeding can begin as soon as the frost has gone and new growth begins.
• Additional feedings should be given as one blooming period ends, to stimulate the next one.
• In cold areas roses should not be fed after August.
• A mix of blood and bone meal or a complete organic rose fertilizer should be scratched lightly into the soil around the plants.
• As soon as the ground warms up in spring, apply a five- to 10-centimetre (two- to four-inch) cover of mulch (water first if the soil is dry) to conserve moisture, improve the soil, and keep weeds down.
• Well-rotted cow or horse manure is a good mulch and also adds important nutrients, but it contains weed seeds and is scarce.
• Good mulches include compost, ground corncobs, shredded leaves, sawdust, salt hay, straw, shredded bark, buckwheat hulls, and cocoa hulls.
• Rake the mulch aside when applying fertilizer. Liquid fertilizers can be applied directly through the mulch.
• Replace mulch annually to minimize pests and diseases.

• Winter protection greatly extends the range in which roses can be grown. The principle is to insulate the crown of a plant to enable buds (which will form the following year's plant) to survive.
• Winter protection is done by mounding up the crown to a depth of 20 to 30 centimetres (eight to 12 inches).
• The commonest material for mounding is garden soil. It should be taken from a separate location: digging soil from between the plants may damage the surface feeder roots.
• Leaves or straw, packed into a wire collar, can also be used.
• It is wise, when using leaves or straw, to set rodent traps.
• In colder climates, climbing roses should be taken off their trellis each fall, laid on the ground and protected with soil, straw, and wooden boards.

Remember: snow is an excellent insulator. Anything that will cause snow to accumulate on your rose bushes is beneficial.